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Peak Mountain 3

The Wrong Chimney

FA Unknown [ as climbed by W. Hastings & R. Hall circa 1968 ]
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Located to the right of THE Chimney, the "Wrong Chimney" provides access to the excellent class 4 / easy class 5 rib between the two chimneys. [NOTE: MtnPrjct member Ryan Gibbs suggests it is highly probable that this is the same gully/chimney as "False Chimney" in Rock Wilcox's winter ice climbing guide. ]

Scramble up into this chimney and climb it for about 200-300 feet, looking for an exit wall on the left as the central gully becomes steeper and more narrow, eventually the gully actual ends at a gravelly/poor-rock "headwall". [ I think we moved out on P5, but I have no recollection of pitch length, we would have been using a 40m (137 ft) or 150 ft rope.] The exit wall was the crux ( 5.4 -5.5 ?)

Above the exit wall, the rib (keep a bit to the right, see photo of upper section) provides for pleasant and enjoyable Class 4 / easy Class 5 climbing to the ridge just south of Chimney Peak.

I also think that on another day we climbed THE Chimney, and moved right onto the rib that ends exactly on Chimney Peak.

Location

To the right of the "Correct" Chimney (i.e. "The Chimney")

Protection

Usual rack