- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pi
takes the nice looking moderate face right of
Lack of Principle
, followed by one of the most unusual 5.7 pitches in the area. From the walk-out ledge, follow a line with three bolts (gear between) to a large ledge and belay by tying off a huge boulder. (About 15 feet left on the ledge is the two-bolt belay (Metolius rap anchors) for
Zach's
and
Doubling
, but your second will appreciate it if you belay from the boulder.) Pitch 2 avoids the gigantic cammed block above the boulder by stepping right, clipping a hidden bolt, then working up a left-leaning ramp (small cams useful) to another bolt over a bulge and heading straight-up past a third bolt to the anchors. On the second pitch, just left of the second bolt, there is a large cammed flake; it wouldn't budge with a pry bar, but be circumspect using it. Bolts added after the FA to make it more suitable and fun for beginning trad leaders.
Location
About 30 feet right of
Lack of Principle
is an obvious walk-out ledge with a belay bolt. The route lies above. Rap from chains (60m rope mandatory to reach the ledge with one rap) or continue up the ridge as far as you’d like (3rd or 4th class; this is the upper part of
Straddle the Pony
, above its crux section).
Protection
Single set of nuts and cams to 2 ½".
Routes in Vector Madness Wall
- 15Pi in the Sky5.7Trad