We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Pi in the Sky

FA JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, June 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pi

takes the nice looking moderate face right of

Lack of Principle

, followed by one of the most unusual 5.7 pitches in the area. From the walk-out ledge, follow a line with three bolts (gear between) to a large ledge and belay by tying off a huge boulder. (About 15 feet left on the ledge is the two-bolt belay (Metolius rap anchors) for

Zach's

and

Doubling

, but your second will appreciate it if you belay from the boulder.) Pitch 2 avoids the gigantic cammed block above the boulder by stepping right, clipping a hidden bolt, then working up a left-leaning ramp (small cams useful) to another bolt over a bulge and heading straight-up past a third bolt to the anchors. On the second pitch, just left of the second bolt, there is a large cammed flake; it wouldn't budge with a pry bar, but be circumspect using it. Bolts added after the FA to make it more suitable and fun for beginning trad leaders.

Location

About 30 feet right of

Lack of Principle

is an obvious walk-out ledge with a belay bolt. The route lies above. Rap from chains (60m rope mandatory to reach the ledge with one rap) or continue up the ridge as far as you’d like (3rd or 4th class; this is the upper part of

Straddle the Pony

, above its crux section).

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams to 2 ½".