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Peak Mountain 3

Sugar Daddy

FA Adam Macaluso, Jason Chinchen, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts out slightly dirty, only to lead to epic rock and climbing with great position and exposure. 

Start by stepping off the boulder at the base of the climb with a high pocket, NOT from the ground (grittier). Clip the first three bolts on a left facing diagonal, then mantle and high step your way past the balancy crux into pockets. From here to the next bolt can be done direct or you can trend right over the bolt to the corner for a bit of a rest. It is dirty here in the middle, but soldier on and you will be rewarded with amazing rock above. Climb over a small roof feature and onto the headwall above. Enjoy the rest of the route as holds appear when you need them on incredible rock unlike anything at Smith. End with easier climbing and interesting movement on bullet hard angular holds and horizontal ledges that lead you to the anchors. 

Location

Sugar Daddy starts just left of the corner and red-tagged climb, at the bottom of the gully on the left/west side of the Cornerstone Buttress.

Protection

9 bolts and carabiner anchors. Helmets save lives.