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Peak Mountain 3

Captain Clusterfuk

FA Blair Williams, Jason Chinchen, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start under an obvious bulge using a large right hand blob. Clip the first two bolts past left-hand sidepulls easily and then navigate a reachy crux before the third bolt.

Follow a ramp to the right, under a slightly overhanging headwall. Clip the next two closely spaced bolts, perhaps retreat for a rest, and then fire through one of two variations to the next bolt. 

Easier climbing leads to the final three bolts, which climb over several large, slightly overhanging, polished plates of tuff, interspersed with juggy incuts. Climb right of the anchors to huge holds before clipping the carabiners. 

Location

Cpt. Clusterfuk starts above the large boulder in the gully using large left-hand side pulls. There is an obvious platform. It is the left-most climb on the Cornerstone. 

Protection

11 bolts and carabiner anchors. Helmets suggested on the monument in general.