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Peak Mountain 3

Wanted Out West

FA Dakota Walz & Lane Mathis, July 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wanted Out West climbs the uncharacteristically steep point seen while walking up to Ra. Although the feature is hard to miss, it was likely passed over because, at first glance, the rock quality doesn't seem that great. Luckily the route cleaned up very well and provides a uniquely dynamic and exciting route for Empire.

Like most routes in the area, WOW-III is well protected but a difficult onsight. It also links seamlessly with

Windows on the World

(see

The Triple WOW

for more info).

P1.

5.11b, 70ft, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

This is a great pitch of climbing on its own. A pumpy section of white granite finishes with a distinct sloper crux. Rest, and follow the dihedral up and around some funky 3D climbing. If you're climbing the whole route, continue past the rap anchor to a short section of easy but perpetually dirty rock. Another anchor exists on the major ledge. If you're only here for the first pitch, stop at the rap anchor with links and rings.

P2.

5.12b, 90ft, 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Climb big moves to big holds right up the center of the steepest rock. A short section of easy climbing on ugly rock leads you to a pumpy section of dynamic movement (5.11+) on great stone (don't get sucked out left to the dirty stuff) and finishes with a mantel to a lay down rest. Get your energy back before blasting off to the dynamic crux at the very top. The second bolt is invisible from the belay and must be extended. Additionally, the bolt below the final roof (above the permadraw) must be extended, back cleaned, or skipped to mitigate rope drag.

Location

This is the first bolted line you'll see from the approach. Found about 100 feet down and right of

Windows on the World

.

Protection

11 quickdraws

2 alpine draws

60m rope