Nearer To Thee

This splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop

EOA's

second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of

EOA

, paralleling

Higher Calling

, to the top.

Start: Climb the first two pitches of

EOA

(.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).

Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).

Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for

EOA

about 10' back.

The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of

EOA

are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.

12 to 18 draws depending on how pitches are combined, with 2-bolt anchors after each pitch.