- Edit (TBD)
Old Times
Description
A long, varied and adventurous route up the left side of the slabs. This route takes a mostly independent line all the way to the upper headwall, then follows a steep crack to slabs above. On this route you'll encounter a wide variety of terrain, including friction slabs, low angle face, steep cracks, some dirty rock up high and as always, plenty of classic Whitehorse runouts. Start at the base of the Dike Route.Pitch 1:Follow pitch 1 of The Dike Route up it's faint dike to the ledge with an old piton sporting a quick link. Belay from the ledge. 5.2 R 100'Pitch 2:Climb off the belay to the right of the dike, then climb with no pro up the slab at 5.6 to an overlap where you can get some cams, belay from gear. 5.6 R 80'Note: If you want to skip the less than ideal pitch-1-belay, and avoid unnecessarily risking a factor 2 fall, you can clip a microtraction to the pin and simul to the overlap to skip that belay altogether. Pitch 3:Continue up the slab above and clip the bolt on Pathfinder P3, follow Pathfinder to the tree ledge, then move to the right side. Belay from a tree with some slings. 5.7 110'Pitch 4:This pitch is shared with P4 of the D'Arcy Crowther/Pathfinder. Climb up the featured slab past old pins to the split block. Surmount the split block and belay above it in a crack with medium sized cams. 120'Pitch 5:Trend left off the belay towards the steep overlap, looking for a ramp which cuts back right through the overlap. Climb up the lower angled slab past an old bolt. You’re aiming for a big flake with a crack on it's left side, roughly in the middle of the Dike Route traverse pitch. Belay from gear in the base of the crack. 5.8 120'Pitch 6:This pitch was originally done as a direct finish to The Dike Route, called Corbett's Crack. Climb the steep crack, with good exposure as the slabs fall away beneath you. Move left at the top and belay from trees. 5.8 60'Pitch 7, 8 & 9:Here the quality of the climbing degrades and the adventuring ramps up. Follow the path of least resistance to the top of the cliff, through dirty slabs and tree ledges. Not much of a defined route, whatever gets you there works, just try not to get lost and remember it's supposed to be easy climbing. If you know where you’re going, this is a good spot to simul as there are lots of trees for running terrain belays, just make sure you and your partner are solid.Descent: Walk off on the hiking trail to climber's left back to the base.
Location
Same start as The Dike Route.
Protection
Single rack to #2, some nuts and tricams as well.
Routes in 7. The Slabs
- 6Old Times5.8Trad