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Peak Mountain 3

The Dike Route

FA Fritz Weissner, Robert Underhill, summer 1933
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An historic but not well traveled route which has some cool parts but is no classic by any means. This is a long moderate line up through the left side of the slab traversing around the headwall to the right and up to the summit.Not a favorite due to it being a bit dirty and loose in parts but it holds some cool, interesting moves in places.Pitch 1: 100ft easy 5th class. Scramble up the dike/pockets from the ground on the left side of the slabs to an anchor on the right.  [Note- I’m not sure the “ anchor” is still there. At best it was once only a lonely piton. I looked for it today ( 10/1/21) and didn’t see it from 15-20 ft away on rappel. R Hall 10/1/21. ]Pitch 2: 130ft 5.2. Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor in a toilet bowl pocket.Pitch 3: 150ft 5.2. climb the dike all the way to a big tree with slings on it.Pitch 4: 100ft 5.3. Scramble up from the trees toward a right leaning arch. Belay at some trees at the base of the arch. (This is roughly what the book says. I couldn't find a way to get to the arch without climbing 5.6 but I did see an anchor on a cluster of trees that matches this description.Pitch 5: 130ft 5.6. Follow the arch on nice but sometimes dirty rock until you can pull over the arch and up the slab to a 2 bolt anchor below the steep bolted route "The White Zone".Pitch 6: 90ft 5.5. A long traverse right leads to an anchor which you can use to rappel. (four 2 rope rappels get you to the ground)Pitch 7: 90ft 5.5. Continue traversing right until you get to a corner with a couple old pins (upper section of Wedge). Follow the corner up to some ledges.Pitches 8-10: Adventure time. choose your own adventure through low angle rock and trees to the top.

Location

On the left side of the slabs there are 2 dikes. This is the one on the right.

Protection

Regular Whitehorse rack.