- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is a good way to access Assembly Line. It starts to its right. Scramble up to a ledge and start your typical low-angled easy DT crack (starts as left-facing dihedral) for P1. When I did it, there was a "broken tree" near its base. This pitch is probably a 5.6 or so. To the left are 2 eye bolts for an anchor. Continue from the anchors as P2 becomes a set of dual cracks with some increased difficulty and trickiness towards the end. This pitch ends on a nice ledge, where you can move left about 20 ft or so to access Assembly Line. If you are feeling comfortable at the good stances, the second can do a bit of modified simul-climbing (clipping to the leader's pieces occasionally) to do this as a pseudo single pitch climb.
Like many DT climbs, there is no move as difficult as the route's rating. I didn't even think that Broken Tree was too sustained as there were several good rest stances. That being said, the climbing was enjoyable.
Protection
Like most other DT routes, bring at least 2 sets of nuts and some cams in the blue Metolius to 2.5 Friend range.
Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
- 21Broken Tree5.10bTrad