- Edit (TBD)
Back to Montana
Description
A pretty fun stemming pitch with a slightly spicey crux. It is a bit licheny, so my guess is that it doesn't get climbed that much, though it is an excellent pitch.
Approach by climbing the first pitch of Everlasting (5.8+). From the Everlasting belay, traverse right past the first bolt of Everlasting's 2nd pitch and climb slighlty loose and vegetated cracks and flakes up into the dihedral formed by the right side of the Everlasting column. This is where the fun begins.
Stem up the corner that starts fairly moderately but becomes increasingly difficult as you ascend. The crack in the dihedral eventually peters out, but good RPs can be placed in the crack on the right. The section at the stemming crux does not eat gear and the final moves out of the crux are a bit above your last nut. Continue more easily to a final tricky move left onto the Everlasting column.
Double rope rap to the Everlasting belay and then a double rope rap to the ground
Protection
Lots of nuts, including RPs. Some small cams up to #1.5 Friend. A #2 Camalot works well in a pod before you start stringing together RPs.
Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
- 24Back to Montana5.10dTrad