- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Climb up through a mossy chimney towards an arete, then right into a corner where you'll find the crux (5.10b). Pull past crux onto a ledge with a horn that is good to belay from. (150 ft)P2: Layback up the crack system. There are some awkward moves before gaining the face up higher (crux 5.10b again). Watch out for potential rockfall as you're climbing just above your belayer. Gain arete then easy climbing up and to the right towards the gully system and belay off a strong looking tree. (100 ft)P3: Climb up towards the intimidating gully/crack that's actually one of the funnest bits of the route. Stem/chimney to the top at 5.8/9 most of the way. Once above the chimney, make some easy moves to a plateau. (100 ft)Walk/scramble towards a gully. (100ft)P4: It gets very bushy. Go hard right, around the corner you will find an off-width crack (5.8) that is likewise pretty enjoyable, if a bit dirty (get used to dirty at Limpy). Gain next plateau and belay from a good tree. (100 ft)Scramble to top (~100ft), sign summit register (only 2 signings including ours at the time of this writing!), and continue towards a good rap tree on the other side. It took us 2 raps with a 60m to get down to the ridge between upper and lower MIDDLE limpy.
Location
Hike all the way down the hill to the southwest base. You'll see a very big tree. Hike around or scramble up. See route-finding photos
Protection
standard rack. no anchors, use gear or good trees
Routes in Middle Limpy
- 2Talweg5.10Alpine · Trad