Limpy Express Line

Begin from the right leg (looking uphill) of the two lowest legs of the Middle Limpy.Pitch-1 (60 m): Belay off the large Doug-fir (you may find flagging here). Scramble (5.6) up 30 ft to a large vegetated ledge. From the ledge climb (5.7, pro) up into a light brown simi-cave area, from here climb around left onto solid black rock, around and up to a bolt (5.10a, small nut and a pecker). The first two bolts are the crux of the climb (5.10c) but are placed close enough to be aided. Once through the crux follow the line of least resistance and bolts (5.7) up and right to a standing belay. Two bolt belay, no chains. You will be on dark colored rock with a large light brown area to your left.Pitch-2 (60 m): Climb 15 ft and left to first bolt (5.9). Once above first bolt follow path of least resistance slightly right following bolts about 20 ft apart (5.8 ). Route angles slightly right towards, but not to a medium size Doug-fir. There are opportunities for placing gear if needed. Second bolt, stuck during placement, hangs out half-way; there is a good bolt placed 5 feet above this. Before reaching the Doug-fir, follow an obvious flake system and route of least resistance (5.6-7) to the belay ledge (4 bolts - 2 good, no chains).Pitch-3 (60 m): Climb straight up from belay and left of a large standing flake (5.6). Climb the head wall behind the standing flake (5.10b) protected by two bolts. Once above headwall climb up a gully to a small horn with slings and one bolt with rings.Pitch-4 (50 m): From the horn you have two options.                           A) climb left approximately 75 feet into a large simi-cave (rappel chains), 5.7. From this ledge scramble Class IV around the left side following the path of least resistance up a gully system for about 200 feet to a large sandy ledge and obvious dead end. From here scramble right up a steep gully (5.5 - ) to the summit register (rope recommended for return back down). This is also the route to take back down to the rappel chains.                          B) scramble Class IV right to the obvious headwall below a small alcove with trees (about 50 feet, one bolt). Climb the headwall (5.7, one bolt) into the alcove above. Belay from one of the trees.Pitch-5 (50 m): From the alcove, climb onto the ridge to your right . Follow the ridge to the summit register placing gear as needed (5.6 - ).Descent: From summit register, follow rock cairns right (looking south) to the steep gully and back down path described for Pitch-4.A. From the rappel chains in the large simi-cave rap (30 m) to the horn on top pitch-3. Add a sling to the horn and rap back down Pitches-3,2,1 to ground leaving slings (60 m each). Recommend a knife for removing old slings.

Hike down the steep pass between West and Middle Limpy to the lower west corner of Middle Limpy. Negotiate your way around the lower west leg east and then back up a bit to the next leg which will have a large Doug-fir growing on it. This will be the start of the climb.

Mixxed climbing on bolts, small nuts, cams, and a pecker. 60 meter rappels (two 60 meter ropes), some have chains some require leave webbing.