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Peak Mountain 3

Voyager

FA P. Van Betten, J. Smith 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Pretty casual 10a up the left facing corner. Transition to the left crack where a small tree grows out of the top. Belay on gear on comfy ledge (.75 - #2 cams) (140 feet)

P2. It gets real here with pretty sustained 5.10 climbing. Continue up the crack, placing pro before face climbing left under the roof. Continue up and around the roof on thin cracks (the jammed knot and nut anchor described in Handren's guide is gone). Continue up the crack, aiming for a ledge with loose stacked blocks up and left with a bomber two bolt anchor. (140 feet)

P3. Wow! Another full rope length up what looks from below like a super low angle crack. In fact you get perfect hands in a flare, tips laybacking, and thin face moves. The low angle offwidth chimney protects with hand size pieces. The thinning cracks above take lots of finger and small nuts. The final face crux is out a bit from your gear back in the corner. You don't really want to fall here- partly because the fall would suck and partly because you've already come this far.

Descent: A long rappel leads to a questionable scrub oak laced with rat-gnawed old slings around broken branches in the Steep Space chimney. Another rappel leads to the ground. Be careful of stuck ropes.

Location

Located on the right side of the Challenger Wall, just left of X-15. Voyager shares the first two pitches of Enterprise before branching left.

Protection

Doubles from #00- #2 camalot. 1 #3 and 1 #4. Contrary to Handren's book, leave your #5 behind. Save a #2 for the last moves.