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MapDescription
This "everyman's" variation avoids the run out start and the 5.11 crux of
Wide Country
105760527which is the first pitch of The Direct North Face and allows one to climb the rest of the DNF at only 5.10. The middle pitch of
X-M
is now the spice crux with this variation.
Climb the
Bastille Crack
past the chain anchor of the first pitch. At the top of the chimney flare, traverse right, obvious 5.7, into the final 5.10c section of the first pitch of
Wide Country
. Double runners on any pro above the chains on
BC
before moving right are helpful to avoid rope drag.
See Steve Levin's description of the DNF for the full route beta.
Protection
Standard Eldo rack.
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
- 16DNF 5.10 variation5.10cTrad