Northcutt Guillotine

This is an amazing link-up to create a really great pitch of Eldo 5.11 climbing. Climb the

Northcutt Direct

start to

The Bastille Crack

. Place some gear high near the P1 anchor on

The Bastille Crack

, then head straight left on an exciting traverse to the 5th bolt on

Madame de Guillotine

. From here, fire straight up on intricate face climbing past 4 more bolts. There is a distinct crux that feels pretty hard for 11b unless you have it sussed out. It's pretty spicy after the last bolt on 5.10a moves. You can place a few pieces on the easy section up to the P2 belay on

The Bastille Crack

. Finish on

The Bastille Crack

or

Outer Space

. Or do P3 of

The Bastille Crack

, and then traverse up and right to the anchor at the base of

Hairstyles and Attitudes

. Climb that route or you can rappel from that anchor down and climber's right to the

X-M

/

Wide Country

anchor and from there to the ground. A 70m rope is needed.

Start just left of

The Bastille Crack

on the

Northcutt Start

.

5 bolts, 1 pin, some gear for the

Northcutt Start

and for the finish on

Madame de Guillotine

. Set a gear anchor as for P2 of

The Bastille Crack

.