- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an interesting climb on the Lower Owls, with a very short approach. Good for those who enjoy (or want to get some mileage on) wide cracks and chimneys, but at a moderate grade. The mitten is a large, leaning block midway up the right side of the Lower Owls. Take the approach trail to the Lower Twin Owls trail. The route starts a little uphill from the lowest point of the cliff.
P1. 3 possibilities: a) take a blackened inset, with a finger crack, which leads to a short squeeze chimney, and continue more easily to a ledge below a wide crack (5.9); b) take a hand crack just left, and continue up an easy groove to the same belay (5.7); c) start further left in the easy groove.
P2. Climb the wide crack, go up the right side of the mitten, and tunnel through the roof at its top; belay just above (5.8).
P3. Walk over right, then climb a square cut, right-leaning chimney with good hand-sized protection. Turn the [weird] roof at its top, and belay beneath Twin Owls (5.7).
Climb a route on that rock, or descend right and scramble around to the base.
Protection
Standard rack to a #4 Friend; two to sew it up.
Routes in Twin Owls
- 34Tilted Mitten5.8Trad