West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)

Located between

Coyote

and

Anaconda

, West Owl Direct was 1st free climbed by John Bachar and Douglas Snively in the '70s and renamed

Silly Putty

. As a freeclimb, it's still a Lumpy Ridge runout testpiece, but it's still an enjoyable aid climb, as well. West Owl Direct is a step up in difficulty from

Anaconda

; however, the quality of the rock is not as good. Much of the way you're dealing with banged-out pin scars, yet this climb also places you in one of the best positions on Twin Owls.

If aid climbing, bring a standard clean aid rack and extra TCUs. Lead one long pitch (60m?) to the roof, or belay on the top of the 5.9 flake and then fire to the roof from there. The anchor below roof has old bolts, but one can back it up with a crack above. From this belay, escape out left and continue up above the

Wolf's Tooth

column. P.S. Don't use the bunk anchors halfway up to the roof!