10,000 Leagues

10,000 Leagues is an interesting route that weaves a path between some classic bits of climbing. While parts are lichenous, and somewhat contrived, it's a worthwhile route for someone who's climbed everything else on this excellent sector of the Redgarden Wall.

P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of

Jules Verne

, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto

Lene's Dream

. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to

The Naked Edge

, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.

As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on

Jules Verne

.

The

JV

LD

part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.

P2: Traverse right off the

JV

belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin

JV

below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.

P3: Climb the

JV

roof. Continue up, and stay straight where

JV

breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.

Gear to #2 Camalot, heavy on the thin stuff.