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Peak Mountain 3

T2

FA Layton Kor and Gerry Roach, 1959. FFA: Dave Rearick, Bob Culp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is probably my favorite route in Eldo. It is long, exciting, has beautiful climbing, better than

The Yellow Spur

, and the upper half sees little traffic.

The first pitch is the crux, a pumpy overhang that will be quite dangerous if you are not solid on it. Climb up fifteen feet to the lip, clip a good drilled angle, and crank onto lower angle rock. If you feel iffy on this section before beginning, you could probably stick clip the pin. The 5.8 above is pretty runout.

Take

Jules Verne

as the second pitch, a 5.8+ crack. The original second pitch of T2 sucks as it is covered in bird crap.

The pitch above the upper ramp is one of the most beautiful 5.9 pitches in Eldo, and not done too often.

The last pitch is short, .9- but definitely dangerous. It consists of overhanging talus protected by bad pins, of course if you can do the first pitch, this pitch won't be a problem.

To get off, scramble a long ledge to join up with the last pitch of

Ruper

.

Protection

Standard rack.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 35
    T2
    5.11a
    Trad