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Peak Mountain 3

Forrester's Crack

FA Forrest Shute and Wade Mills, early 1960s?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb a steep wide crack via huge face holds over a slightly overhanging bulge (5.6) and continue up a widening chimney to a thin finger crack (5.7) on the right wall just below the bolted anchor of Saviour Heart, Far Side Chimney and New Tradition.

Although it shares a few holds with Saviour Heart, it is a separate line that predates all sport climbs at Mt. St. Helena. According to Jerry Dodrill, during the first ascent Forrest Shute "took a 50' fall and the rope caught as he hit the ground, landing on his feet. He went right back up and finished the route."

Location

This route is the obvious wide crack a few feet left of Saviour Heart 5.9.

Protection

A set of cams up to 4". The first two bolts of Saviour Heart may be clipped.