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Peak Mountain 3

The Chief

FA Chris Summit and Jeff Follet 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.

Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.

Location

Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.

Protection

3 bolts, then a small runout on easier climbing to the top.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.

There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.