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Peak Mountain 3

Santa Cruz

FA Todd Gordon, Frazier Haney
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Identical start as for Where Have All the Cowboys Gone (5.10d). Start 30 feet down from the Iconoclast arete, high on the left side of Saddle Rocks. A bolt and gear protect to a belay anchor. Continue up and right past bolt protected climbing. Listed as the dreaded "5.8+" grade elsewhere, this climb has a short, well-protected crux.

Best done as a single pitch; if the first anchor is clipped extend it to avoid rope drag. I suggest climbing this, rapping to the anchor and doing the second pitch of Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.

Protection

A few pieces in the medium range, including a few nuts, will add some comfort on the first section. Mostly bolt protected.