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Peak Mountain 3

Right On

FA John Wolfe and Rob Stahl, June 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1)

Face climb up a smooth, run-out apron of rock past one bolt (1/2" SS) to a ledge with belay bolts (1/2" SS).

P2)

A short pitch with a steep, exposed hand crack takes you to a huge ledge with belay bolts (1/2" SS).

P3)

Chimney up the featured wide crack which narrows and then turns to a crack up a slab which leads to a belay stance at the base of a vertical section; gear belay.

P4)

Easier climbing up steep but featured cracks takes you to the top as you aim for a notch; gear belay.

It's very possible and perhaps even recommended to combine pitches when possible on this route.

Descend

by rappelling off the shorter backside via two sturdy bolts (3/8", 1/2") which are located just left as you pass through the notch; a single rope will suffice to descend.

This is a splendid adventure for the grade and merits four stars out of five.

Location

Located on the far left side of

Saddle Rocks

(well left of

Walk on the Wild Side

) and visible from afar as the

right

of two long, parallel cracks which define the left side of Saddle Rocks.

Protection

Take a good selection of gear to 3 inches and numerous long slings.

  • All bolts on the route have been replaced and are 1/2" SS.