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Peak Mountain 3

Deep Lichen

FA Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Kevin Bein
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I'm focusing on only P2 of this climb as the Williams guide doesn't recommend P1. This is a good option if the other classics on Arrow wall are occupied or you're looking for a new challenge up there. Be solid at the grade and comfortable on borderline R terrain at 5.6/7; the crux is on good gear.

(P1 starts by the Red Pillar block and works up the right side of the pillar and then the steep white face above past small overhangs and a small right-facing corner. Not recommended. Ascend to the GT ledge another way!)

From the start on the GT ledge, move up past a few blocks (possible gear) to gain the face and a cam placement. Move up the slab on 5.6/5.7 terrain that is PG13/R and gain a stance at your next placement. Make fun, balancey moves to continue up and move into the small alcove/pod stance. Plug some good gear here (small nut, green C3) then work up the steep slabby face (crux...reachy) to easier terrain and the top. Walk back and make an anchor on a tree.

Descend via the Arrow or Annie Oh! bolt lines to the north (climbers' right).

Location

On the GT ledge, locate a clean streak through the lichen to the right of Snake's P2 (which is the big corner) and left of Red Pillar P2. There's a small cluster of trees on the left end of the GT Ledge that make for a good anchor.

Protection

Nothing larger than 2". C3s and small nuts helpful.