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Peak Mountain 3

Face to Face

FA P1: A. Long, R. Kligfield, J. Kingston, A. Rubin 1977 P2,3: B. Richardson and I. Rezucha 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.

P1- An excellent pitch of 5.7. The first third, up to the right-facing arc, is delicate and a bit run-out, with a balancy 5.7 crux move or two around the arc.  Of note, you can protect a ground-fall with micro-cams, small nuts, or small tricams. Above the arc, you'll find easy 5.7 face climbing that's very well protected. Make a nice tree belay at the GT ledge.

P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.

P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!

Location

40 feet right of Three Vultures at a concave face. Begin at the left side, just left of a very shallow right-facing, right-arching corner.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

Standard rack. Micronuts/cams and one 4" unit may be helpful but not necessary.