We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Gossamer Wings

FA Alan Bartlett, Alan Roberts, 4/1988.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

3 pitches up the middle of the Lost Horse Wall.  Black painted bolted rap anchors now equipped for all 3 pitches, with P1 (120 ft) starting up the vertical crack system directly below the right side of the giant square block about halfway up.  This is different from the original P1 starting crack system directly below the left side of the same giant square block, as described in JT West by Vogel and Rock Climbs Of Lost Horse by Bartlett.  The original P1 leads to a P2 (100 ft) that begins with a rightward traverse across the underside of the giant square block.  There's a fractured key foothold near the middle of that original P2 traverse, and when it eventually breaks off, that P2 would likely end up going elsewhere.  Perhaps this was why the present day bolted rap stations align with the vertical crack system directly below the right side of the giant square block, to skip the roof underside traverse.  P2 ends at another bolted rap anchor on a giant ledge with a huge catclaw bush that's more like a full grown tree now.  P3 (120 ft) goes up the slabby face along the right side of a recessed dark face (also possible to veer further right to go up via well-travelled left-slanting cracks), connecting up to the prominent overhanging dihedral for an exciting airy finish.  Last bolted rap anchor to climber's right once past the dihedral roof, or summit to walk off to climber's right as for the other popular routes.

Location

The present day P1 with bolted rap anchor starts about 5 ft to the left of Wilson's Regular Route.  The original P1 is the next vertical crack system approx 10 ft further left.

Protection

Pro to 3", bolted rap anchors.