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Peak Mountain 3

One Foot In The Gutter

FA Unknown
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Description

Just a few steps north of Charles Mingus sits Thelonious Monk, a 50’ long boulder running north-south with a striking traverse crack running downhill to the north, where the athletic traverse One Foot In The Gutter begins.

On the downhill north end there is a raised disc to pinch or drag for your starting hold. Work left, south, and get into the crack.

Work the three distinct sections and fight off the pump somehow to end up on the obvious rock platform uphill at the south end!

Feet are sparse but key indeed.Video of FA: youtu.be/rUGeueqr_-Q

Namesake: youtu.be/xUIFAMNjgmM

Location

Park at LMS and head down to the crag. Follow the wall to the south for 270 yds and pass a talus slope with vines. Continue and notice the rock size increasing and features showing up. Follow the animal trails to a cave overhang and a ramp that leads to Thelonious Monk in 5’ and then 10’ south of that rock you will see The Jazz Workshop founder, Charles Mingus.A more direct approach is to park at LMS and walk downhill to where the next guardrail starts. Count 7 posts and jump the rail. There should be a drainage culvert there. Scramble downhill and you should end up in the viney talus slope or just south of it. Continue south a few minutes and you will find The Jazz Workshop.On either approach if you look east to the lake you will see a cove with a sandbar extending from its northern shore. If that northern shore is south of you, you are north of Mingus. If it is north of you you are south of Mingus. If it is directly even with you and mount scott you’re right there.

Protection

Pretty safe without pad or spotter but one section has a rock landing.