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Peak Mountain 3

The Roedel Route

FA Scott Ayers, Matt Roedel, Sean Davis, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is dedicated to Matt Roedel, who passed away a year after working on the FA of this route.

Pitch 1 - Follow the bolts through the first roof, then into the short crack system, stepping left when in fades, and over a second bulge to belay bolts.

Pitch 2 - Step right from the belay and up to a bolt, then over the bulge to gain the ledge. Continue up to join Sweeny Erect and into right leaning diagonal cracks up to the overhang. Climb the overhang and then up chicken heads to build a belay. .

Pitch 3 - Up and right to find the weakness in the overhang, protected by bolts. Then straight up to shared belay with top of P3 of the Fire Sermon just below the headwall.

Pitch 4 - Straight up to climb the headwall and final overhang to the summit. Two bolts in the roof. 

Location

Starts 30' uphill and to the right of Teenage Wasteland below the obvious overhanging bulge. The first bolt can be clipped from the ground. 

Protection

Lots of bolts on P1, the rest is mostly on gear.. Single rack of nuts and cams to 3".