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Peak Mountain 3

Teenage Wasteland

FA Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1996
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Note: This climb is different than the Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) listed on MP. It is detailed in the Tanya Bok guidebook.

Pitch 1 - Climb the short right facing corner to the slab. Follow bolts over the bulge to the belay.

Pitch 2 - Up and right to the diagonal crack system. Exit the top of the cracks and trend up and left, crossing The Waste Land route and head for the shallow, left facing corner. Belay on large ledge, shared with The Fire Sermon.

Pitch 3 - Follow the bold line on the left, belay directly below roof.

Pitch 4 - Surmount the roof and then easy climbing on ears and slab to the top.

Location

Starts about 30-40' uphill and to the right of The Waste Land at a shallow right facing corner. 

Protection

Lots of bolts. Single set of nuts and cams up to 3" is plenty.