The Gorgon

The Gorgon route is directly nearby and somewhat similar to

Turn To Stone

. The bulge/roof up top is split by cracks and has a few jugs that limit the difficulty of the climbing to 5.8, however. It is surprisingly easy relative to its initial appearance from the ground, and jugs abound.

The Gorgon lies about midway up on the South face of upper Medusa. This is just down and left of '

Turn to Stone

'. The route starts through the left side of a roof at a human-sized "pocket" in a large bulge with the first crux there and then passes through the double cracks at the right side of the upper roof to the right of

T.T.S.

for a second crux. See the attached beta photo for details. This climb is longer than it looks due to a zoom on the image.

A light rack to 3". Crux gear up top is a purple, green ,and yellow Camalot, in that order. Save at least the #0.5 and #0.75. The #2 is optional. The belay is 4 meters up the E. face in a very good horizontal crack and takes mixed cams as well.