Turn to Stone

Turn to Stone is a moderate climb with a few bulges for cruxes. Good protection is available most of the way if it is sought out by a skilled leader.

This climb goes up and right diagonally through a crack system to the top of the rock on the South side of upper Medusa (see the attached photo).

To descend, continue to the summit and off the back (scramble, or do a second pitch).

Midway up the South face of upper Medusa, a long roof guards each the bottom and the top, 10' and 90' off of the ground, respectively. The bottom roof is bypassed via a slot on the right. The upper roof is in 3 sections, with a crack system separating the middle section from the left or right. Turn To Stone ascends the cracks in the middle section.

A light standard rack to 3".