(5) Cryptic Friction

1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.) 2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.) Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney. 3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.) 4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.) (Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)

Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for ”J- Cubed,” or walk to far right end of the wall and rap “Bombs Away”.

At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.