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Description
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Climb beautiful chimney 180' to it's end then out exit crack and belay above. (5.8 190')
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Finish crack and diagonal up left toward bulge above(up and right is a rampy slot that looked too hard with no pro.) You should see a bolt on the "Mystery Route" about 30 feet left of where you can find a couple pieces to protect bulge moves to a short crack. Continue up, then left out left end of long overhang. Belay at bolt and pin on nice ledge above. (5.9 170')
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Tricky moves up and right lead over to a crack that soon Y's. Take the right branch basically heading straight up and belay at rope's end where possible. If you take the left crack it will lead to another 2 bolt anchor/rap station for the Mystery Route. (If you belay there you might not have enough rope to finish in one more pitch) (5.6 200')
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Up and left is the main chimney that J-Cubed finishes in. On the right side is a fat flake that you can chimney up to stemming between a detached fin and the main wall. Good pro in a short crack gives way to a bit of a runout after stepping over to the main wall. Hard to find gear protects final easy moves to the top. (5.8 190')
Descent: Scramble down long descent gully on left side of wall... or walk right along top and try to find the raps down "Bombs Away"... or: Cross down (4th class)to left side of J-Cubed's chimney, looking for rap off tree and boulder. (1)Rap to 2 bolts. (2)Rap to top of pitch 2. (3)Rap down and slightly (climber's) left to a bolt and pin in a crack. (4) Rap to ground.
Location
From the left descent gully, walk along the base of the rock for a couple hundred feet to the first chimney, just past the hard to see bolts of "The Mystery Route." (See topo picture under main heading.)
Protection
Standard backcountry rack with a #4 -- a #5 is handy on the first pitch. 2 ropes for the raps--60M ropes are best for the climb.
Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.
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