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Peak Mountain 3

Defending Staten Island

FA TR Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of thoughtful moves.

Start up the less-featured face to get hands on the obvious diagonal crack (but not using the obvious foothold to right in the lower crack, which is for a different route). A little ways up with the crack, soon exit from the crack up right and up the face above (using the right side of the small buttess for left-side hand- or foot-holds, but not the crack in buttress). Finish is more interesting if do not use the left side of the top rock.

. . . ? Name of route ? . . .

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Under the right side of a small buttress just right from the obvious gully which is a bit right from the center of the Jersey Vols sector. On a less-featured section ... a few feet left of the tree which is on the right side of the bottom of the gully, and a few left from an obvious left-leaning diagonal crack.

--> see on these route photos ...

W angle on Center+Right side

Center + Right side

Protection

Top-Roping: Straightforward to set up top anchor with static line. Hike+scramble around the right side to reach the top.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.