- Edit (TBD)
Description
A clean, aesthetic, long and awesome, this is one of the longest free routes in the Yosemite National Park. It starts a few hundred feet left of the Golden Bear on Bunnell Point. Best to climb it on a cool summer day or in the fall. The river is crossable in mid to late summer, depending on snow pack from the prior season. However, one may approach the wall before the river is low, by continuing up the valley to a small bridge, which crosses the river. From there, about 2 miles of cross country backtracking with some 3rd class will take you to the base of the wall.
There is no choss on this one. Sustained in low to mid 5.10, the route has a short 5.11a crux on the third pitch, which can be pulled through at A0. All the cruxes are well protected and most of the belays have good two bolt anchors. There are a few belays that take gear or have a bolt supplemented by gear. Expect face climbing cruxes on all the pitches. Original and very worth repeating.
Location
The route is about 250' right of a prominent right facing corner and left of the dike climbed by the Golden Bear. Begins with a few moves of thin slab which gives access to a short and shallow left facing corner, where one should spot a bolt - about 15 feet above the ground. After about 20 ft, you will merge with a thin, left facing dike, which continues to vary in size and will continue to slant left and gain elevation towards the top.
Protection
Bolts and natural pro = single rack from 0.2 to #1 camalot