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Peak Mountain 3

Sugarloaf Dome - South Face

FA John Salathe', Cliff Hopson, November 1951. FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, 1960
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the 1971

Roper

guide:

"Each party who has climbed this face seems to have taken a different route.

From a brushy ledge halfway up the face, Salathe' and Hopson went diagonally left across the south and southwest faces - this involved much direct aid.

A better route is to climb more or less straight up above the brushy ledge.

The 5.9 is found on a friction face several pitches above the ledge.

Descend via brush-filled slopes to the west."

The face is somewhat wide, and no description of the pitches reaching the brushy ledge is known, but the lower face is low angle and looks fairly featured.

It is also unknown where on the face the upper pitches start,

but there appears to be a corner near the junction of the south and east faces.

Location

Directly above the trail, 3.5 miles east of Nevada Falls.

Protection

Unknown, so it would be wise to bring a standard rack of nuts and cams to 3 inches.


Routes in C. Little Yosemite Valley