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Peak Mountain 3

Disintegrator Crack

FA Todd Bol, Jake Burgart, 9/19/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Bernard's old guidebook mentions this crack as an unclimbed roof left of Triangulation Point and Quaking Aspen. There are actually 3 crack lines through this roof. I led the middle line and hung several times. Jake followed, doing the same. We did the FA of the crack, although it's waiting a free ascent. We will be back! It is likely 5.13.

It needs cleaning. There is a tower of shit and some loose holds at the start. There is a fixed nut in the roof, which will help make a free ascent happen. Hard and painful 180 degree roof moves lead to a sinker hand jam and a cruxy lip encounter. Then it's about 5.10 wide/fists/hands to the top.

We may add a hand drilled anchor at the top, because the current configuration isn't great for working the route. Technically, these routes (and Sandbeach Rocks) are all in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Location

It is up in an alcove to the left of Triangulation Point (5.10) and Quaking Aspen (5.11).

Protection

0.5, 0.75, 0.5, a fixed nut, #2, #3, #4, #3, and some gear for an anchor and the easier climbing above.


Routes in Kinickinick Crags