The Horse Whisperer

P1. Locate a mellow corner with some large bushes that leads up to a hand crack about twenty feet up. Transition to the hand crack (crux), and climb up to a nice belay ledge (5.9).

P2. From the ledge, place some gear to the right, and slab up to a flaky traverse. Take the traverse to the end of the corner, and belay at a fixed nut under the roof (5.6).

P3. Undercling and jam out the roof. The crux is figuring out how to turn the corner to gain the 5.8 wide crack to the top. There is a nice belay on a ledge at a tree. It's a great pitch and is reminiscent of

Turf Spreader

on Cynical Pinnacle (5.11).

Enjoy the summit, and then easily descend by walking off the back side.

*The nut (and carabiner) at the 2nd belay were here when we climbed the route, along with some tat lower down. It appeared someone had bailed from this spot A VERY long time ago. The 1st and 3rd pitch were certainly FAs, as they required significant cleaning. We think that someone did the 2nd pitch from the easier right side and bailed.

This route is actually on Horsetooth Peak, up the hill from Kinickinick Crags. The route is the obvious roof on the right side of the cliff.

A single rack to #1, doubles #2 and #3, and a single #4.