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Peak Mountain 3

Energy Crisis

FA Paul Clarke & Ed Sampson, 1976.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Same start as Rusty's Cave. Work up face to right slanting crack. After crack runs out, head straight up broken obvious weakness. After a few steep pumpy moderate moves, Rusty's Cave traverses left, but Energy Crisis continues straight up the steepening wall to a smallish hanging tooth. Getting to the tooth appears to be the crux, but there are more difficulties past the tooth. At about 20' past the tooth, the difficulty eases a bit, trend left looking for the belay station anchors. There is a lot of lichen in places, but that won't be your main concern.

Location

This route starts at the left edge of the step/col between the P-wall Pinnacle and P-wall, just to the left of Epidural.

Rappel with 70m rope.

Protection

The protection is challenging but there. There are no protection bolts. A set of nuts and a double set of cams to blue will make the climbing less R and lower your stress.