Biemer's Trough

Aim up and left out of the cave belay toward a shallow, grey, trough. A tooth-like feature just below the start of the trough is a landmark to look for.

Purdy durdy at this point. No love for the Trough apparently. If you can make it to The Vagine, you're pretty much home free. Climbing with a brush is recommended but may add an hour to your ascent (wish I had brought one). It's often said, but if this route cleans up some, it would actually be a quite good, mostly gear protected journey to the top of P-Wall. And, combining it with Rusty's Cave would make it the easiest route to the top of the main face (movement-grade-wise), although currently the grade is a bit shrouded by lichen and questionably fragile holds.

Most of the route protects quite reasonably in short cracks and grooves that open up and are fairly spaced. The runout is up higher on easier terrain, but don't let your guard down and pop off on a fragile hold or slip on the plentiful banana-peel lichen. There are a couple of larger holds down low around the bolt that beg to be used, but are timebombs (a large left-foot edge, and an obvious left-hand jug). They, and other fragile features, can be climbed around. I found the moves getting to the bolt and past it to be a bit tricky.

I found only 1 useable bolt which appears to be a replacement, set a couple feet left of the original, which is still visible as a thin, rusty stud. The existence of a higher bolt is questionable, but also moot, since it's not really needed unless it had protected the upper runout of easy terrain.

Route ends at a good 2 bolt anchor with chains

Starts from the cave belay of Rusty's cave.

Climb Rusty's Cave (5.8), Sofa King Great (5.11-), or Slime & Dine (5.10d) (listed right to left), to reach the cave belay. Biemer's Trough heads left out of the cave and Poor Man's P-Crack (5.10a) heads right. Both start from here unless you are linking them with several options of pitches leading up to this point from below.

1 bolt

Single rack of cams from tips to hand sized (with doubles of 0.3 and #1 Camalot equivalents). I used Totems: 2 x blue (0.3 Camalot equiv.), 1 x green (0.75 Camalot equiv.), 2 x red (#1 Camalot equiv.), 1 x (#2 Camalot equiv.), and 1 x 0.2/0.3 offset X4 Camalot.

Single set of nuts (I used 1, the largest light blue DMM offset, although I passed a spot that would have taken a small Peenut as well)

Enough slings for most pieces