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Description
Start doing your calf raises now because this one's a real pumper! Mosey up some easier terrain, placing a few cams as you go toward the first bolt on this wild ride. Clip it and begin the never-ending pure stemming adventure up this beautiful 120 degree obtuse shaft. Incredible stemming on delicately rippling walls, intensely engaging full body tension, and the occasional tiny edge or nubbin for the hands and feet are what await you. Climb past 9 bolts until the seam on the right opens wide enough to take gear. Don't worry though, the intensity of this rig is far from over! Several tiny pieces from ballnuts and RPs lead to micro cams and eventually to fingers. Clip the anchor and give those calves a rest!
This climb is pretty sick, I highly recommend checking it out. No moves harder than 5.11, but no moves easier either.
I have not done the second pitch 5.11c finger crack but it looks pretty good. The P1 anchor would be a FULLY hanging belay.
Location
Kind of unobvious. A shaft with obtuse edges and a right seam that opens up a bit much higher. You will see the line of bolts when you get close. A few columns right from Direct Southwest.
Protection
I placed: 2x .5 for the beginning, 9 quickdraws, yellow ballnut, larger RP, grey c3, green c3, black totem, .3, .4, .2
So bring lots of micro gear and you'll be psyched.
80m barely gets you down, tie knots!
Routes in Durrance Approach
- 7Blue Stem Skyway5.12cTrad