Millbrook

Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed.

"The Bank" was the first cliff climbed in the Gunks, via "The Old Route," by Fritz Wiessner in 1935. It's rated 5.5 and I've heard it's pretty chossy, but Millbrook isn't for sissies after all. Other "must do's" include Westward Ha! (5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), Time Eraser (10a), High Plains Drifter (10+), New Frontier (11-), and Nectar Vector (12+), along with a few others that, by tradition, aren't talked about too often. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.

The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. One interesting point to consider is that the climbs are typically approached via double-rope raps from above. This will not take you to the bottom of the cliff, but will instead land you on a "GT Ledge" of sorts. This ledge ranges from 2-20' wide, and the climbs begin from this point. This ledge is very different from its extension across the Trapps;  in Millbrook, it is often quite sloping and covered in loose pebbles - you generally cannot plan to walk on it. Also notable is that due to its "remote" location, rescue is much further away, and you may not be near other climbers. Due to lower traffic, you should be prepared to deal with loose rock.

Access:  All of the cliff lies on private property. The Mohonk Preserve is the only entity that explicitly allows climbing, and they only own the top of the north half of Millbrook, but none of the cliff itself.

For more on Millbrook, don't miss local climber Christian Fracchia's site WhiteCliff, where he provides excellent topos, photos, and select route descriptions. Christian is one of the Millbrook locals who you might contact to show you around, in the old tradition.