Peak Mountain 3

11. Pine Mountain

Description

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Access Notes:

1) When the Horton camp is in session (weekend and/or weekly groups) during the Spring thru Fall seasons, the public is asked to respect the camp and stay on the marked trail(s).2) In the fall of 2022 the road will be under repair/construction Monday > Thursday.  There will be no vehicle access when work is being done, although you'll probably be able to walk in from the parking at Pinkham B road...An old-time slab/cliff (first climbed in the 1930's with evidence of further climbing in the late 1960's-mid-70's) that has seen some recent activity, mostly by Matt and Kathy Barker who researched the early climb(s) with the Boston AMC. Helping them was/is Ben Smith and the Chinos' Jon Garlough and Hank Tracy.The cliff/slab presents a interesting alternative to slabs like Whitehorse and even Table and Rainbow due to its unusual character of slabs with a serious number of small overlaps, and at least one route completely on pegmatite.Bring a light standard rack (we didn't use anything larger than a #1 (red) although we brought a #2 (gold) & a #3, "alpine draws" (i.e. long-ish) are useful, the routes wander a bit. Expect to find a bolt or two if needed but we aren't talking "sport climbs" here. Nuts seemed especially useful on the pegmatite. We survived with a single 70m rope, but used the trees on far right to descend from the top ( 3 single rope raps).Fairly easy approach: 0.9 mi. on dirt road, 0.1 mile on trail and about 0.3 mi bushwhackCurrently that 0.3 mi bushwhack, while not bad in terms of the degree of "brush-crashing", is still pretty obscure. (More on this in "Getting There".) With additional visits this may become more clear.


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