90' high, Crux mid way up. Face climb which ends on a ledge. A little rope drag over the lip. 70 meter will reach the ground. Might be ok with a 60.

Retirement Fund

Parting Gift

Access Gully

Fun crack climb 10-15 feet left of Retirement Fund. It goes to same anchor as used for Retirement Fund.  The climb's name comes from the fact that the first ascent lead was leaving Montana, so lead was a going away gift. Crux is half way up where crack widens and bit of roof is apparent.

This is a four pitch climb/scramble, primarily to access top of Muddy Creek Canyon's south wall in order to do top down bolting for future routes.  Nevertheless, it's a fun adventure with very cool arch near the top.

1st pitch is 5.6 for 120 feet. Use single trad rack up to BD #3 and a 70 meter rope. Lots of loose rock, so be careful and check hand and foot holds as you climb. Good pro placement not apparent until third of way up. Top of this pitch has bolted anchor on climber's right to belay second up and for rappelling off.

2nd pitch is a class 3 talus ramp that ends with 20 foot 5.3 chimney.  Chimney free soloed.

3rd pitch is steep class 3 scree for 150 feet or so ending with walk through cool arch.

4th pitch is 5.6 climb on good rock for 70 feet that begins after walking through arch.  There are no cracks for placing pro and no bolts at this time. Must be comfortable soloing 5.6.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Side of Creek