OK climbing; never a line; as a result, mossy character relative to its neighbors.The crux is a little like the start to West Crack on DAFF, but the holds are a little larger and the runout a little longer. There is some gear on the way to the start of the crack; offset cams and green alien/smaller are handy. The Reid/Falkenstein book shows this route connecting back to Holdless Horror, but it goes to the top if you want to take it there. Expect a little runout in a runnel. The obvious corner exit is highly vegetated; we took the crack system to its left. Walk off as for Holdless etc.

Side Dish

Errett Out

Dumpster Evangelist

Loud and Obnoxious

Read Between the Lines

Felsic

Avocados and Tequila

Bit by Bit

White Lie

Ripple

Cheeseburgers  and Beer

Bull Dozier

Tourette's

Scandalous Summer

Errett By Bit

Dozier Dihedral

You, Me, and the Dike

Holdless Horror

Plutonics

Wrest Day

Ursula

Isostasy

Angelic Upstart

City Girl

Cheetos and Everclear

P1:  Start on the face just right of the bush growing out of the bottom of the crack.  Climb up to first horizontal ledge, or, further up to the next smaller one (80 or 100 feet?) and build a belay anchor.  5.6.

P2:  The "business" pitch.  Climb up and mitigate impending horror by using the "holdless" terrain rather than get engulfed in the people eatin', imposing crack.  Busy, but, never hard and the pro is decent if you take the time to find the money spots.  5.7.

P3:  The fun 5.6 pitch.  Great climbing that gets steep and improbable looking, but, always a nice foot and/or hand hold to help you out.

P4:  Final easy fifth class romp to the top.  Can climb far enough up to set belay for a safe walk off following the pitch.  Low angle, one short roof near the end of the pitch.  Great gear, but, somewhat spread out between bomber placements.

Historically significant as the first technical rock climbing route on this Dome.  Great name, too.  Classic TMH.

This climb starts down and left of "Holdless Horror" and just left of a group of trees.

Climb a low angle slab, past one bolt and past a horizontal crack and seven more bolts to a two bolt belay.

Climb a 5.7 pitch past seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.

A 5.6 pitch leads past three bolts.

Rappel or walk off.

Climb an easy, shallow right facing corner (gear needed) and then work left to bolts.  Climb up the nice knobby face.  This is a well bolted climb.  Crux is near the top.

This is the next route right of Bit By Bit. The first pitch starts up a 4th class slab to some flakes. There's optional gear placements here. Then a steep section of very tightly bolted knob climbing. Above the angle lessens and you cruise over to a bolted anchor. The next pitch climbs up to another anchor below the right side of an arching roof. Pitch 3 turns the roof and then it's easy 5th class to the final anchor. Rapping the route is the quickest way down, or you can walk off to the right.

This modern sport climb was bolted over the top of an old R/X route.

Fun toprope that shares the same anchor as "You, Me and the Dike". A slabby start leads to a good ledge, then climb knobby face to beautiful golden granite (crux). Thin incut edges can be found for you fingertips but it is mostly your feet that are doing the work. The route eases in difficulty if you go further to the right as there are more face features. Climb straight up to the anchor for the best value.

Roughly follows a left leaning dike up the face. Shares the first 4 bolts with "Cheetos and Everclear". Sustained at the 5.8/5.9 level. Mostly small knobs, some friction, and a couple of hand crack moves.

To the left side of the Ripple boulder there is a small ledge.  Start there, put in a piece at the crack near the start of the dike and go up a bit to the first bolt (5.8R). Clip another bolt and continue straight up.  You can get another piece in the left facing feature before you get to bolt #3.  Continue up nice face climbing with another 5.8ish move at bolt #4.

This route starts to the Right of "Errett Out".

Climb a pitch past seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.

The second pitch leads past nine bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Rappel (two 60-meter ropes).

To the right of "Scandalous Summer", climb past 6 bolts to a big ledge.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 140'): 4 bolts + gear to bolted belay.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 180'): 6 bolts + gear to bolted belay (bit of a runout on easy terrain without gear).

Left side of Dozier Dome @ black streak

Climb straight up through bolt-protected face (crux is about 50' up); pass some horizontals with supplemental pro.  make obvious trend to the right (join Scandalous Summer) at top to avoid chossy/lichen-covered rock

Belay/ 2-rope rapell from tree on ledge

Right leaning crack starts off ledge about 30' up

Climb 5.6 friction (no pro) straight up to slightly right-leaning crack [or it looks like a corner system just to the left is protectable - then traverse right].

First pitch - good pro & moves to sloping ledge - 195' 5.7

2nd & 3rd pitches As per J. Albers (from comments)

The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.

The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.

Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.

Cheers.

Cool knob climb that is very well bolted.  Mantle up past the first bolt, climb through a small roof, and work left to the nice knobby face.

A fun, easy climb at the far left of the wall.

Climb low angle knobs past bolts to a ledge with trees.

Crux is after the last bolt.

Rappel.

This seems to be the combo favored by most, linking up the better parts of Errett Out and Bit By Bit.

P1 coincides mostly with P1 of Errett Out, passing its low two-bolt anchor at 70 ft and continuing up the bolted face to the second-to-last bolt.  At that point, instead of heading up to the last bolt of that pitch, veer up and right onto a right-slanting ramp to connect to the P1 bolted anchor of Bit By Bit.

P2 goes up the entire P2 of Bit By Bit to that pitch's bolted rap anchor.  Either rap here, or continue up the 5.8 P3 of Bit By Bit (which is indicated as P3 of Loud & Obnoxious here on MP) to another bolted rap anchor.

Dozier Dihedral is the right facing corner on the right side of Dozier Dome.  Layback and smear to a small roof.

The route traverses along the obvious dike that cuts across Bull Dozier and Side Dish. Climb up easy ledges or slab to a horizontal crack (~2"), then simply follow the dike all the way to the anchor. I found the crux to be somewhere between first and second bolt, just before getting to the Bull Dozier crack. I ended up doing a hand tranverse there but SuperTopo suggested the original crux can be avoided by keeping your feet on the dike. Both leader and follower should be confident at the grade as falling would result in long pendulum swings.

This takes a line of strength up the blank section of wall between Holdless Horror and Bull Dozier. The first pitch is long and has many bolts. The difficulties gradually lessen as you work your way up the face. There is a bolted anchor just before a large ledge, or you can take a seat on the big ledge (no anchor) to belay. The second pitch climbs past a few bolts on easy terrain to another anchor. One more pitch of 4th class leads to the top.

Rap the route or walk off right.

Fun old school squeeze chimney. Would be better if it wasn't so dirty!

You will have plenty of time to think about the differences between PG and R on this excellent classic three pitch face route with lots of variety.

Pitch 1 runout up the very easy smooth apron to a right leaning, right facing thin dihedral with pretty good gear until it ends at a steep face with a horizontal crack.  Great cams can be found in this horizontal 3 feet either right or left to replace the missing pin, but you will have to work for it.  Make the wild crux mantle to clip a welcome bolt.  Golden edges and a mantle past 2 more bolts then make a wild thin traverse left to another horizontal and a bolted belay.  5.10c PG 50 meters.

Pitch 2 easy traverse 10 feet right to a thin 5.9 dihedral with good gear to horizontals.  Move left past a loose flake.  Further left and up past 2 bolts with great knobs 5.9+ to a 0.75" cam under a flake, wild face climbing to the right up the flake to a bolted belay 5.10-. 30 meters.

Pitch 3 starts left then goes right on unbelievable thin face and knobs past 7 bolts.  Most of the time will be spent making 5.10 moves with a bolt below your feet.  Finish up and right to a thin dihedral.  Gear belay here.  5.10b PG 50 meters.

Scramble 4th class to the top about 20 meters.

Beautiful rock with a great mix of face and crack climbing. Second pitch requires some careful route finding for the easiest path. There is a bit of PG-13/R-rated 5.6-5.7 climbing, but the gear is there and the stances to place it from are comfortable. Thus, while care should be taken when leading this, it is certainly not R-rated in the same category as, say, the Dike Route over on Pywiak.

Pitch one:

50 feet of 4th class to a ledge. Gear anchor.

Pitch two: (5.8R)

Climb a right trending ramp to an obvious downward pointing roof/flake, get gear, then pull onto the flake and face climb up and left to another right facing flake which takes gear. Climb up and left to another, smaller right facing flake that takes a small cam and then go a ways up and left to a subtle right trending ramp in the area with the brightest white rock (a bit of small gear here). Follow the right trending ramp up and back right to the first bolt. Climb up past three more bolts to a double bolt anchor with chains.

The crux is well protected with bolts, but you do need to climb some 5.7R between gear placements before the bolts. Excellent climbing. 160-170 feet.

Pitch three: (5.6)

Face climb up and right for 40 feet, aiming for a hand crack. You can get some gear before the crack, but you need to use runners. This part is a bit run out, but very easy climbing, maybe 5.4. Follow the pretty 5.6 hand crack to a two bolt anchor with chains. Full 200 feet.

Pitch four: (5.8)

Climb straight up from the belay over bulges past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. 60 feet.

Great face climbing on gold polish.

11A crux starts the third pitch, consistant 5.10 moves between every bolt.

Be aware the second pitch has a variation to the left called "Claim Jumper", it is 5.12.

Good slab moves down low lead to an easy section and a ledge where more technical climbing continues.

Start at the large white dike. Follow dike (fun easy moves) for 4 bolts then step right and head up nice thin face for 5 more bolts. Fun, balancy moves. About 180 feet from the ground (belay in the shade) or around 130 feet from the terrace (belay with the view).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dozier Dome