Left side of the south face of the "Penguin." Climb Third String and then move left to the bolts (or walk in from the west; which is pretty easy).

The first few bolts move through less than perfect, yet pretty clean rock. Then through, a more technical than you think, slab section.

A great rest below a bulge, leads to a fantastic headwall! Perfect crimps and a few jugs on this will leave you loving life.

There is No Try

Rookie of the Year/An All Star

The First Cut

Covey Leader to Raven

The Third String/Unnamed

Drill Team

Semper Fi

Wax On, Wax Off

What Is Your Major Malfunction, Numbnuts?

Didn't Make the Team

This route starts up a chossy, flaring squeeze, continues with some fun moves around a horn, and finishes with juggy climbing on (relatively) good rock.

A very enjoyable, well bolted route with an airy, intimidating roof right at the top.

P1

(

Rookie of the Year

5.9, 40') Start on the left side of the alcove that sits at the bottom right of the buttress. Climb up and over a small overhang using large, but somewhat suspect holds on fractured, light-colored rock. There is a spot before the overhang which will swallow most of your left leg, allowing a no hands rest (although you shouldnt need it at that point). After surmounting the overhang using good footwork continue on lower-angled rock to the anchors.

P2

(

An All Star

5.10a, 100') Start up on good quality, hard, reddish quartzite on the right side of the arete forming the southeast corner of the buttress. As you approach the arete youll come very close to the route to the left. Stay on the right bolted line.

Follow the bolts through a shallow dihedral/trough to a small roof. After overcoming this obstacle look up at the final roof and think, Oh surely not! That, however, is your goal. Climb up past a couple of bolts to just underneath the roof. Clip the bolt at the lip and remember that it is .10a. The moves over the roof are airy, extremely enjoyable, and most remarkably, not terribly strenuous.

A juggy, loose climb on shattered quartzite. Start while standing on Mineral Fork Tillite and pull up and over a small overhang in broken white quartzite past the first bolt. Continue up less-than-vertical terrain to a low-angled (read: grassy) finish to the anchor.

A very enjoyable route with a first pitch on loose, fractured rock that is nevertheless pretty fun.

P1

(5.9, 70') An intimidating 5.9 on really poor rock; it is, regardless, quite fun. The start is overhanging with crumbly footholds; getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Even crumblier rock awaits, and getting up and over the horn partway up the pitch requires some effort as well. Eventually you reach much better quality quartzite and a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.

P2

(5.9, 70') Climb on beautiful, hard quartzite following the bolt line to the left (the route to the right comes quite close to this one at the belay, and it is possible to use the line to the right as the second pitch if desired). Solid, positive holds abound until the upper, smoother face when the holds get a little scarcer and less positive, requiring more in the way of sidepulls. The route goes around the left side of the roof right at the end; the last bolt is at the left side of the overhang.

A first pitch that is (how shall we put it?) a regrettable necessity to avoid an uncomfortable scramble to the base of the enjoyable second pitch.

P1

(

The Third String

5.2, 60') Climb on crumbly, terror-inducing, shattered rock through eight bolts to a hangers-and-rings anchor.

P2

(Unnamed, 5.10c, 80') Scramble above the anchor to a ledge, above which starts much better quality rock (although there are still loose bits here and there). Climb through eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor on the top left of the formation. The climbing is quite enjoyable with a crux midway through that requires a bit of body positioning trickery. Although the climb really isn't terribly long, the position high above the canyon floor and the consequent feeling of exposure is really fun.

Climb along the right side of the wall, past 4 bolts. The crux is at the last bolt. Good holds throughout. This route has much more solid rock than the two routes to the left.

An interesting, easier route, made thought-provoking by loose and crumbling rock. The climbing is on positive holds, mostly large, but requires some thought and care, particularly in foot placement.

Climb up through four bolts on the left side of the containing alcove, and then bear right to meet up with

The First Cut

.

A fun, short, juggy, little route on solid quartzite.

Start up past a slightly overhanging section on big holds, then continue up the less-than-vertical face (with a tiny roof), looking for the big edges.

A good, easy introduction to leading on the shattered, white quartzite found on the north side of the canyon.

Climb through three bolts on large holds, with thought-provoking, but ultimately fairly solid rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Training Camp