Climb up to a bolt, then work left and up (crux) to a good horizontal. Slightly runout face climbing leads to a second bolt, and then a nice ledge. Trend a bit left, then straight up the headwall to the top and a three-bolt anchor. 

Toontown (mid-cliff START)

Weed-O-Dendron

Young Stud

Summertime Blues

Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)

Velvet Underground

Slow Children (mid-cliff START)

Poison Ivy

Equinox

Floral Morals

Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START)

Charlotte's Crack

Spider (mid-cliff START)

Spawn

Savasana

Desperado

Good Omens

Queen Charlotte

Old Spice

Obscure Object of Desire

Together Through Life

Ghost Town

Clamdigger Crack

Pandora

Templeton's Crack (mid-cliff START)

Skidmarks (mid-cliff START)

Continental Cracks

Buffy

Throne of the Mountain King

Jack-in-the-Pulpit

White Streak

The Web (mid-cliff START)

Hidden Attraction

Standard Route

Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START)

Hotel California

Broken Elevator (a/k/a Robert's Fall)

Harmonic Convergence

Joker

Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START)

Wherever You Go, There You Are

The Becky-Joy Route

Hollywood Waltz

Old Stud

Goat Yoga

Pandora Freeway (mid-cliff START)

Old Spud

Bugaboo

This climb begins on the ground 15 feet right of Charlotte's Crack. Follow the arete (left of big dirty gully) 15 feet up to a small overhang. Pull the business and continue on easier ground to the big ledge with a pine tree with chains. 

  A fun alternative first pitch to Charlotte's Crack

 Start at the far right end of the big overhang. Above the overhang, climb left, then up and back right to a fixed anchor. Double ropes are recommended to protect the second on the crux moves at the first bolt. Rap with two ropes.[ Edited by RH , Admin, ME.] 

Traverse right to gain an incipient crack, then climb up past tricky gear (crux) to gain the easy crack. Belay from the Old Spice anchor (two bolts with rings).

Mantel a short initial corner, cross a grassy ledge, and climb the main dihedral to the bulge (this part is all shared with Throne of the Mountain King). Head left up the slab under the bulge, then up easy slabs to the big ledge and the tree.

5 feet right of the Poison Ivy anchor on Broadway, a couple face moves leads to a thin finger crack that fades in and out. When the crack fades out climb to a bolt, then straight up the face to some pockets where gear can be found. Climb a short vertical section to two rusty but beefy bolts.

Climb the mossy slab on good holds (poorly protected, but very easy) to a ledge. Get solid gear, then climb small left-facing flakes to a high bolt. Tiptoe left to reach big holds, then power up and right to a nice ledge with a two-bolt anchor.

Add this to the climb "Poison Ivy" (on the lower wall) and you get a 2-pitch, four-star 5.4-5.5.  

  START- In the "gap" in the mid-cliff ledge Broadway, about 10 ft left of the double bolt anchors of "Poison Ivy".  

  P1- Climb the crack above the "gap" for about 30 ft, then hand traverse left to another crack system and up to the top and a 2-bolt anchor.

Climb a fun flaring corner to many horizontals. Choose your own adventure through generally good rock to the big Broadway Ledge. A two bolt anchor awaits you.

A fun moderate outing, with fairly good protection by Camden standards. Climb up a short slab near the left end of the big roof. make your way around the left side of the roof until it is possible to step right onto the slab above the roof. follow cracks up to a large peapod. Pull through the peapod (crux), and continue up a series of cracks until you come to a chain anchor. Their is a second pitch to this climb but its not worth doing (4rd class scramble).

Stem up the corner (crux) to the hemlock tree. Step left and follow an obvious crack system up and left to the bolted anchor at the top of the Old Spice slab.

Pull up out of the right side of the alcove onto a short slab, then step back left to a crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, then step left to a short section of thin face climbing (5.8, bolt) that leads to a good ledge. Pull up a steep right-facing corner (crux) onto the headwall, then straight up to the top.

Find the thin seem that heads to a ledge with a tree 40 feet up from the base. Traverse left up thin holds and pro, or follow the crack to the big ledge (broadway). From anchors walk left to the start of a big crack, go to the top.

Climbs a face then up cracks to finish just to the left of Clothesline.  Crux is the lower face. Originally rated 5.7, with bolted protection on the crux moves.  Well, one is a bolt, the most important one.  The other two are ancient pitons. Don't lean back on those! Good gear above.

1. Gain a short left-facing corner. At its top, step back right and climb a short slab to a grassy ledge. Follow the obvious crack left and up to a big step across, then go up to a bolted anchor on the left. 5.7, 90'

 2. Step back right and follow a vegetated crack to an overlap split by a finger crack. Pull through the overlap (crux) to a horizontal, where it's possible to clip a bolt (actually part of a different route -- use a very long runner). Work right, then up a slab with tricky gear to the anchor. 5.7+, 90'

 Rappel twice with one rope.

Start at the big slightly downward sloping foot sized ledge that is right above the low over hang that runs across the entire crag. Hold on to bad finger crack then reach/lunge for small jug (crux) and then climb up slab section with good holds. Then bypass small bulge over hang to ledge. Merge with the top of "Together through life".

Easy climbing to a horizontal crack; then fun moves following two bolts for the second half of the climb.  Wrap bolts are in the alcove.

Climb delicately up the shallow V-groove to the bolt, with tricky protection. Continue straight up, stepping left at a small overlap. At the bushy ledge, pull through a bulge (crux) and continue up to Broadway and the Poison Ivy anchor.

A fun, moderate climb, but be aware of the long run outs. Climb up the middle of a narrow slab to a spacious ledge at a two bolt chain anchor. The climbing is straightforward for the most part, but gear placements are hard to find.

A Short, steep, and thin face climb. A right leaning crack leads to a steep face with good pockets (hard to find) and descent edges. The crux comes up high, you will seem insecure, but all of the holds are solid.

Climb straight up past obvious horizontals to the right edge of a large flake, then more or less straight up to the anchor (easier on the left). 

 The stance at the anchor is cramped, so it's preferable to lower off. 

Face climb past a low bolt (crux) up between the two blocks, then up and a bit right to a prominent square-cut hole below a roof. Pass the roof on the right, then climb easily up the blocky crack to a nice ledge and the anchor.

The bottom is unattractive but cleans up above the roof with some fun easy pockets, easy to protect.  

  At the top, the right hand ramp finish has a large sticker bush, quite possibly a raspberry or gooseberry bush, which makes that finish a bit prickly.  The left hand finish avoids this bush.

This good climb requires trad gear, you'd be looking at some hairy runouts otherwise! 

  (P1) Scramble up the ramp in the small gully to the tricky slab that angles left.  The business starts right away at the first bolt, follow the three bolts up (10a to 10c) and through to some grassy steps to a small stance and build your belay there. 

  (P2) Traverse to the right onto the slab to the first bolt, and follow the bolts to the anchor!

Climb easily up the vegetated crack to a ledge, step right onto the face, and follow the faint crack system (tricky gear, small Tricams critical) to a horizontal. Runout face climbing (crux) leads to another good horizontal and gear. Wander up the face above, finishing up the headwall just left of Charlotte's Crack; belay and rappel from the Charlotte's anchor. An excellent, sustained pitch with challenging protection.

Step up immediately left of the bolted anchor (top of Poison Ivy, bottom of Fourth of July) and wander upward and slightly left, eventually reaching a crack system just below the top. There is a very well-concealed anchor at the bushy ledge, with a good stance.

A great toprope and a very committing lead, left unbolted by local consensus. The technical crux is before the first good gear. On lead, first head for a slot on the right for a #1 Camalot or equivalent, then back left to another slot for a #0.4 (double ropes are nice here); up a moderate but unprotected ramp to a horizontal, then step left and follow a subtle thin crack system up and a bit right to big holds and good gear. There are many places where falling would be a bad idea.

Climb the initial slab past two bolts (crux) to reach the base of the cracks. Optional gear belay at a small stance up and left (3" cam helpful). Follow either of the two cracks, which are about the same difficulty, to an alcove, then either stem up on the left, or pull up steep holds on the right, to a crack system leading to the top.

This route is broken by a big ledge in the middle, and it's slow to dry. However, it also has some sections of good climbing.  

  Climb up the left (smaller) of the two flares on the short slab. Up and a bit left on the big sloping ledge to the headwall, and climb the obvious flake-crack on its right end to a big ledge. The anchor is far back on the ledge, behind the oak tree.

Mantel a short initial corner and cross a grassy ledge to the base of the main dihedral. Up the corner, then work right and pull the bulge to an alcove with a bolted anchor. There's another anchor about 40' further, at the base of the next headwall, which allows easy rappel access, but if you toprope off the upper anchor you are guaranteed a lot of rope drag.

Climb easily up the initial slab past a bolt to a ledge below a bulge with a yellow birch tree on the left. Step right and clear the bulge with a not-very-obvious mantel (easier for taller climbers). Continue up the easy crack system to the tree.Cameron Pinchbeck suggests: "For a harder variation stem up the obvious corner (or cross out over the arete.) then you can continue up the rest of the regular route or pull through the wired bulge then slab climb up to the anchor.  "

Sustained, notably runout face climbing, mostly in the 5.7-5.8 range with a couple of short 5.9 moves. Get solid gear in the thin horizontal above the second bolt to protect a very long runout to the next horizontal. The technical crux is near the top, with solid gear in the horizontal at your feet.

From the top of pitch 1 of Charlotte's crack (Broadway Ledge) follow a right trending crack system. Pass a bolt on the left (belonging to Toontown) climbing the face to the arete. Continue upwards on the arete and face to a two bolt belay.

After an awkward starting move to a good stance, climb straight up past a short thin crack to gain the top of the vertical wall, then traverse diagonally right and exit at a short dihedral. Nice belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor (same as Obscure Object). Rappel.

An easy climb with thoughtful and somewhat spaced gear. Climb two short left-facing corners, followed by a couple of small overhangs and lots of fun, featured rock, to reach a big sloping ledge and the anchor. Rappel, or head up and a bit left to link with Hollywood Waltz.

Follow the wide crack until it ends at a horizontal, then climb straight up a short slab to reach a diagonal ramp. Step left a few feet, then climb straight up to a tiny overlap. Pull the overlap (crux) and follow big holds, stepping left to finish up the middle of the face. The route seems improbable from below in several spots, but hidden holds and pockets make it both easy and well protected.

1. Up the short dirty slab to an overlap, pull over to a short left-leaning wide crack, then step up right to a thin crack system that stays just right of the outside corner. 5.6, 115', two-bolt anchor. (Done by itself, this is one of the nicer moderate pitches at the crag.) 

  2. Move the belay up to above the bushy oak tree. Climb the obvious vertical crack system on the short vertical wall (tricky gear at the start). Bolted anchor on the left. 5.9+, 40'. 

  3. Cross the ledge and follow an obvious very steep corner and crack system to the top. 5.10b, 50'.

Follow the left-leaning crack system and move left to a stance below a bulge. Protect with micro nuts, pull the bulge, and head up left to a good horizontal below an overhang. Pull the overhang and step left, then back right into an alcove with a bolted intermediate rap anchor. (Possible belay here.) Straight up through the next bulge, then more easily up and left to Broadway. Two-bolt belay anchor on the left (same as for Poison Ivy or Good Omens).

 A mentally challenging pitch with route-finding and inobvious gear.

Find a small crack below a very small grassy ledge and a slightly overhanging bulge and climb it!  Watch out for the loose triangular rock at the at the grassy ledge.  The bulge is a tricky pull; once you have passed it move left and then straight on for the first bolt you see.  At the top of the climb there is a small horizontally angling crack that takes some small gear that protects the final moves well.  From here move right to the small evergreen bush and on to Broadway ledge.

1. Scramble easily up the chimney to a short finger crack on the left wall. Climb the left wall, passing a bolt, to a ledge. Step right and climb a short friction slab past another bolt; diagonal up right to a stance with a gear anchor. (5.8, 60') (To do this pitch by itself, stay left of the second bolt and go to the big pine tree on Charlotte's Crack.)

 2. Step right and climb the overhanging headwall past two bolts. Follow a crack system more or less straight up the slab above, pulling a short headwall on the left to reach Broadway. Belay at the bolted anchor of Charlotte's Crack. (5.9+, 70')

 If doing this route in one pitch, use long runners on the lower part to alleviate rope drag.

Climb more or less straight up the face to a short finger crack and a bolt. Above, an enjoyable crack system leads to a short headwall just below the top. 

  An easier start follows the large diagonal crack system from the pine tree, joining the regular route at a small vegetated ledge.

P. 1: Climb easily to the top of the pillar, which can be slung for protection. Step up and arrange gear, move left and up to good holds, then hand-traverse vigorously back right, clipping a bolt along the way. Another move or two leads to a ledge and low-angled slab (optional intermediate belay at the Velvet Underground anchor on the right behind the twin birches). Follow the easy slab to a right-facing corner on the headwall and follow it (crux) to a bolted anchor on the big ledge. (5.8+, 90')P. 2: Up the open slab. Trend left to join P. 2 of Goat Yoga below the headwall, or right to the big corner right of the headwall, and belay from the Goat Yoga second pitch anchor. (5.6, 150') Rappel Goat Yoga, or follow its third pitch up to the big pine ledge.A single 70m rope works fine for the Goat Yoga rappels, but probably won't quite reach from the second Goat Yoga anchor to the first pitch anchor of this route.

Step up over a small overhand just off the ground, then follow an obvious crack system to oak trees on a big ledge. (This section by itself makes a nice short 5.4 climb.) Step right and climb the headwall past a bolt (crux) to good holds on the left, and pull onto a big ledge. The bolted anchor is a bit up and right, behind the tree. One-rope rappel.

P. 1: Climb easily up the crack and corner system to a bulge. Pull the bulge on the right, move back left, then up to a short hand crack. At its top, move left and climb the face to a good ledge and belay from gear. (Alternatively, follow a ramp up right to the bolted anchor of Standard Route.)

 P. 2: Step right from the belay and climb a short, thin finger crack, then wander up easy face to a ledge below a bulge. Step up left, then back right and head straight up the narrow clean face past horizontals to Broadway (oak tree and bolted anchor).

A harder start to old spice. A short, steep slab with three bolts. Join old spice after 25'. The hard section is quite safe, but this route shares the runout 5.6 upper section of old spice.

P. 1 Mostly bolt-protected, but not quite sport climbing. Pull up onto the opening slab, clip a bolt, and move up to a nice ledge below the overhanging headwall (gear in a great horizontal just above the ledge). Climb the steep headwall on mostly big holds past two bolts (optional thin cam placement between the bolts), emerging on a big sloping ledge. Scramble up to the base of the next headwall, placing gear if desired. Step a bit left and climb over unlikely-looking bulges past two bolts. A short finger crack leads to a final bolt just below the nice belay ledge. (This pitch can be toproped by scrambling down and right from the start of Joe's Route to the anchor.) 5.9+, 90'

 P. 2 Straight up the bulge above the anchor, then easy slabs to a headwall with a right-leaning crack. Up this, then easy slabs to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.6, 110'

 P. 3 Straight up easy slabs (sparse but solid gear in pockets) to a distinctive square-cut block. Protect, then step left and climb up more slabs to an alcove. Climb the left ridge of the alcove to the big ledge. Bolted anchor 15' left of the big pine tree of Joe's Route. 5.3, 115'

 Walk off right, rappel (one 70m rope), or take Witchy Woman or Tritium Witch to the top.

Follow the crack system past a horizontal to a sloping ledge, pull an overhang, then move up and left to a big horizontal. Step left and climb a slabby scoop to another overlap (crux) and then up to the Pandora anchor. Rappel back to the Clamdigger anchor with one rope.

The very shallow corner on the arete between the Old Spice slab and the steeper Old Stud wall.  Tricky gear. Can TR with shared anchor with Old Spice. 

1. Start as for Joe's Route, then climb the rib between the two left-leaning corners, heading for a V-groove just below the anchor. 5.7, 90' 

  2. Up and a bit left through the quartz band (easy, but not much gear for a while), then straight up to either of the Continental Cracks finishes. 5.6, 90'

This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.  

  Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.  

  The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff