A fun chunk of varnish I spotted while checking out the new lines on the smaller of the two Jane's walls. Some powerful moves but the rock quality, movement, and positive holds on this one are really good. The name derives from a combination of one of Janes's Addiction's best songs and some mild controversy about the FA.

Been Caught Stealin'

Every Mothers Nightmare

Naked and Disfigured

Pigs in Zen

Idiots Rule

What's left of the sport.

Jay Smith Appreciation Route

Keep It Gutta

See Dick Fly

Mannish Boys

Stealin'

Doctor's Orders

Half Baked

Playing Hooky

Shenaniganery

Scramble up easy rock to steep section.  Power laybacking to face finish.

Start below easy black slab below the left end of the crag. Right leaning crack in the black slab, boulder up the steep arete to the roof. Fun climbing on big holds and huecos.

This gem of a climb is often overlooked due to the classic status of its neighbor Pigs in Zen.  However, this route is just as good.   

  Start by heading up the slab with a right slanting crack (a #1 camalot can be useful here to take the edge off of getting to the high first bolt). Once getting the first bolt clipped, the climb is in your face.  A few sequences involving big, powerful moves will see you through the first three bolts.  At the third bolt, catch a shake at the jug, and prepare for some smaller holds and technical movement. The run from the last bolt to the anchors looks long, but the climbing begins to ease here.

A beautiful line. Solo up the easy ramp to a corner below the roof. Make long, bouldery moves out and around and continue up the pumpy headwall. Lots of longer moves. Stout and sustained.

Starts on the block at the base of a left-leaning ramp. Climbs a varied and interesting wall through a balancy start, a bouldery crux, and a pumpy finish.

Follow cracks up left, under roof left, and up wide crack at top.

Loose, not very well protected climbing. Very soft rock in a few places. Start up a protectable crack a few feet right of Keep It Gutta and place everything you can, turn the roof on the right and try not to bring the house of cards down on yourself. Gear anchor in the cave, head left (thin pro available) to anchor of KIG to rappel, or walk off.

Fun mixed line just right of See Dick Fly. Takes an engaging, well proctected face with a crack running through it to a steeper head wall and crux climbing. This route, like all established by our group, was established ground up, without chalk, no previewing, and no hooks.

The rightmost climb on the wall. Starts on top of the block next to Idiots Rule. A good warmup that follows a line of good crimps and flat jugs up the barely overhung wall.

Follow up to the 4th bolt of EMN then move right and climb the wall past one more bolt to an anchor.

On the small wall to the left of Janes, this is the left route. Shares anchors with Playing Hooky. Harder than it looks.

Scramble up easy rock to slab/face. Up past bolts to the chains.

The line just to the right of and sharing anchors with Doctor's Orders. Harder than it looks.

Easy crack system left of Half Baked, put up solo and all known repeats have been in the same style. A fun scramble with mostly solid rock, and probably a good thing to put a kid or new climber on if you've dragged them up this far already. Standard rack will probably suffice.

"This seldom visited wall has a small selection of excellent steep routes on good rock. It gets sun from mid-morning on, and catches quite a bit of wind."   -Jerry Handren

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Janes Wall