A really fun route, maybe challenging for a new 5.8 leader.

Song of The Vulgar Goatman

Mulligan Stew

Hobonero Sauce

Old Hobo Route

Boxcar Willie

Hobophobic

Senior Project

Hobo Erectus

Shakin' The Bacon

Hoboneers Arete

Thunderbird

The Grifter

Easy Mark

Sloppy Joes

Slowpoke

Flagrant Vagrant

Mudslinger

Fine as Wine

Strike It While It's Hot

Only adding this so it doesn't get confused with

Slowpoke

, its neighbor to the left.

Chimney route that starts in the trees just left of

Vulgar Goatman

. At the top of the chimney, you'll arrive at bolt #1. Continue up broken cracks through 5 bolts to the bolted anchor.

Alternate start if you wish to avoid the chimney is to scramble up to a ledge on the left and then downclimb about 10' to the first bolt. This is the ledge you'll rappel to (120' chains, so you have to belay up a second to clean and rap to this ledge).

Starts in a wide slot on clean granite and then jumps left into a short hand crack. A fun move gets you into a finger crack, leading to a slab with a lone bolt. Good fun for the grade.

Allot like other Leavenworth 5.9's, broken thin cracks, face moves but well worth doing

Start at the base of a short dihedral marked with a bolt to protect the initial moves. Solid holds under the overhang start the route then you do some harder moves to gain the dihedral. A hidden hold at the beginning of the corner made it reasonable. Climb thin crack/face holds on gear till the top of the corner where you can reach the 1st of the 3 bolts that comprise the last part of the route. Several moves of thin face holds lead to glorious jugs and the chain anchors.

First bolt is 20+ feet from the ground, so protect the beginning with a cam, or stick clip the first bolt.

Stem the crack at the start of the route, and follow up to fun slabs under the overhang.

Starts up an open book, then steps left up a short but fun, bolt protected crux. A great warmup or beginner lead with bolts right where you want them.

Pretty fun route, especially below and at the roof. After the committing roof move it is a easy slab above wandering left to share last 2 bolts and anchor with Sloppy Joes.

Short and pumpy clip-up that first traverses up and right, then up. Crux is at/around the 3rd bolt moving right.

(Several variations possible) Move up a mini-buttress via broken cracks on licheny rock. There's a few moves that would be easier if brushed, but the dirtiness makes it 5.7 instead of 5.6. Has an adventurous feel with several blocky 5-easy sections breaking up the actual climbing. Build and an anchor where near the top of the gully, belay up your second, and scramble around to the base.

A fine route with a fine wine name.

Some crazy weird moves through the roof.

Just follow the bolts.

Squeezed in with some area classics, this route is bolted below but can take some pro for run out sections.  Fun climb!

A good route with a bouldery start, blocky midsection, and fun moves through the roof.

The guide book calls it 10d, compared to the Nose at Castle it is easier, maybe 10c.

40' of easy climbing protected by gear up a ramp leads to a lieback flake and then a roof. Stay right and pull over the roof, then make an airy leftward traverse on small feet above the roof on its lip to the first bolt (at about 50').

The book appears to show the route traversing left

below

the roof before going over, but there's some loose rock this way. The rightward variation keeps the grade of 5.7-8 seems safer, albeit more heady.

From here, head up on a mildly featured slab and plug a large piece (BD #4 or 5) and head up to the last two bolts before the chains.

Fun face climbing route, but not great for a beginner or new trad leader; it's kinda heady I thought.

A great crack climb. Worth seeking out. I did the left hand start because it looked more interesting to layback up the flake. There is a thin right ward traverse into another good crack and some wandering to find the top. The only anchor is way back and to the notch for rapping, or you can lower off it and belay your 2nd up while sitting up the hill watching them climb.

Fun bolted clip-up to the right of Vulgar Goatmen. Might as well do it if you're there...

On the center of the wall, and the driest portion thus more white then black.

Left of the crack, its a tricky sport climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hobo Gulch