Start to the left of

Hamburger

on a little horn (chalked up generally).  Stand up and extend to the Gaston inside the crack up the left.  Keep your body off of the protruding rock to the left of the problem.  Work your hands up the crack and slap to the left of the problem about 2-3 feet up, work your feet and make your move towards a protruding horn along the top (well-defined).  Keep your feet and apply your technique to get over the top.

Mayo on the Side

Center Route (Corridor) aka Hall Pass

Pilsner

Hamburger

Poop Deck

Seldom Seen

Hyperion Proboscis

Hyperion Arete

Egg Roof

Solitary Confinement

Lager

Incider

Choss Boss

Big Kitty Corner

Beh Slab

Durango Smurfcock's Dilemma

Sunny Side Up

Scrambled

Hefe

Cheeseburger

Super Size It

Right Arete (Corridor)

PW Traverse

Big Cat

Kneebar Pussy

Linoleum aka Center Route Sultry

A short but powerful line on "The Egg" boulder.  Start low on a jug and climb the crimp face, trending left at the top to gain a huge horn for the top out.

Start from the right-facing dihedral, and move up the staircase of protruding, horizontal holds that take up all the way to the top of the classic and gently overhanging problem.  Running laps on this as a warm up is reason enough to visit the Lion's Den!

Take the obvious, right-angling crack up using plentiful edges.

Start off center boulder below the horizontal cracks, directly below a scar on the top of the boulder.  You start off with a generous undercling and slap for the first crack with high feet - you can bump up with a series of slopey little finger holds or  just go big depending on your ape index - match on the crack and move to the left of the line, get your feet up high and slap for the next crack up and to the right.  keep your feet moving  high and make use of the scar if needed, there is a generous top-out.  Feet are very important on this problem, without good feet you will be wasting a lot of unnecessary energy.

Climb the right of the two large cracks with a layback start. It has a high topout, but it is solid.

The other crack is also V0 and not quite as good.

Start with your hands matched in a heavily chalked, incut hold on the far ride side of Solitary Spirit. Get established on the slab (a difficult, reachy move for me) before slabbing it up and topping out.

An easier variation of this problem (and decent warm-up if needed) starts at a high rail up and to the right of the start holds and traverses over the slab before topping out.

Climb out this overhanging block using both aretes.

This is a short arete problem with good right hand holds but not much for the left.  It requires some balance.

Start low in a finger seam, slap the face, and crank to a crystal and the top.

On the left side of the main face of Solitary Spirit, start on a sidepull/pinch and right hand sloper. Use only holds on the face, not around the arete. This is very crimpy with lots of tension. It is fun!

Lager goes up the left side of the face and arete through some questionable rock. Top out onto the ridge.

Climb up the middle of the face. Pull a long-ish move in the middle, then gain the triangular shelf. Move up to the rounded lip, and traverse right.

Choss Boss is located on the warm up boulder. This makes for an excellent topout for the

PW Traverse

. There are a few differing variations and starts on this boulder. This area has great landings and easy downclimbs.

Start from two underclings and a good foot rail and move up into the downward facing dihedral on a combination of crimps and sloper dishes to the finger slot near the topout.  Not all that pretty to look at, but really good movement and a bit tricky for the grade.

Start in the hole formed by multiple boulders and make a hard move up to the bottom of the crescent-shaped feature.  Work up til you are standing in the crescent and from here move out right onto the face before the good holds at the lip (knowing how to handjam is helpful for the topout).  A fun highball with three distinct sections that is safe with pads and spotters.

Unforgettable name for a stardard warm up. Start with feet on the slopey bulge and hands on crystals.  Move up to the fingers crack with a good right foot on the slab and a prayer.  Top out up the crack and exit right.

Start as for the unnamed V8 on the southeast face of The Egg Boulder (a large jug). Rather than climbing out the bulge to the left, climb straight up on crimps, and top out on slopers.

This route climbs the clean slab just above a short, blocky section on the band of rock before

Lager

and

Pilsner

on the Paulaner Wall. Some of the grades for problems in this area seem off from the Gillett guidebook to the St. Vrain.

Start on two crimps, move up to another set of crimps, then fire high and left for the first of two sloper slots.  More moves get you to the hold at the lip and the tricky, holdless topout.  Absolutely CLASSIC for the grade--will keep you coming back for another bite!

This problem is characterized by the big flake/jug about midway up.

Start at the base of the right arete in the Corridor in the main area.  A combination of squeezing and face work move you up the leftward trending arete, with a tree-back-scrath (so good!) at about 2/3rd height.  A solid arete training route.

This route is on the warm-up boulder. Start on the right side from a layback stance and work your way left via crimps. Long reaches make this route easy, but sticking to the crimps requires great footwork.

There is a flat landing below the warm-up boulder. It has an easy walk-off.

This is THE classic problem at the Lion's Den.  It's a beautiful highball face with some cool features.  Crux is about two-thirds the way up the route.  Sustained, technical moves on great rock.

We started low perched on a decent foot ledge almost sitting. Starting with a left hand on an incut sidepull and right hand on one of the slopers. Use a seam and slopers to make upward progress, eventually gaining a stance standing on the starting slopers, utilizing the mini-roof as an undercling. It was at this stance that we then used a somewhat unobvious rail to break right using decent but lichen covered crimps to top out over the bad landing.

Start the classic

Center Route

(in the Corridor), but break off left into the blankish face.  There are no juggy rails here!  Houdini your way up vertical and sultry face.  It requires a solid jump above the technique required for the standard route.  Good, ++.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lion's Den